Nepal – On The Top Of The World

When you think about Nepal, you might imagine magnificent snowy mountaintops and remote Buddhist monasteries atop them, where people travel in hopes of finding inner peace through mindfulness practices in ancient Buddhist art – or that is at least what I thought before I ever set foot on Nepalese soil.

Nepal is the ultimate home and holiday destination for nature wanderers, trekking enthusiasts or people wanting to adopt the Buddhist way of life. The Himalayas constitute the largest mountain range in the world, including the highest peak – the mighty Mount Everest. If you enjoy climbing mountains and testing your own strength, ascending Everest can be considered your ‘Champions League’ — the ultimate goal.

However, even if you don’t consider yourself a mountaineer and prefer comfort, Nepal has much more to offer than just trekking paths.

I explored two cities during my visit in Nepal – the capital city, Kathmandu and the lakeside beauty, Pokhara. Also, get a cup of coffee or tea because this is going to be a long one…

Kathmandu – How to Get There

The easiest way would be to fly into Kathmandu. There aren’t any direct flights from Finland or other European countries, so you would likely need to have a stopover in Delhi, Doha, or Dubai. The more adventurous way for me would have been to travel from Rishikesh to the border crossing between India and Nepal, but the travel schedule was unfortunately a bit too tight for the slow mountain roads of northern India. Additionally, receiving the Visa On Arrival at the border might have been more challenging than when flying directly to Kathmandu.

Visa On Arrival

Receiving Visa On Arrival is a fairly easy and quick process upon arriving in Nepal and is available for all European nationalities. You can check it for yourself here.

First, you fill in the arrival card, which you’ll receive on the airplane. When you enter the lobby before immigration, you can connect to the airport wifi network and use the QR code provided to fill in the “Tourist Visa” online form. After filling out the form, you can go to the counter to make the payment for the Visa On Arrival. You will need to make the payment in cash, either in Nepalese Rupees or USD. Don’t worry – there is a cash machine next to the counter.

On Arrival Visa Fee:

• 15 Days – 30 USD
• 30 Days – 50 USD
• 90 Days – 125 USD

How to Get from the Airport to Your Hotel

The most convenient way to get around the city in Kathmandu and Pokhara is to take a taxi. Taxis are very cheap in comparison to European standards, and a single 15-minute journey will cost about 2€, more or less.
Taxis in Nepal are generally old and small 900cc Suzuki cars where space is very limited, so if you have a family of 4 people with luggage, you might need to book two cars.

The best way to get a taxi is to order it using an app. I used two different taxi apps, Pathao and inDrive, from which I found the latter one better.

Noteworthy to mention: The taxi drivers responding to your ride request tend to call you before they come to pick you up, so get a Nepalese SIM card ($7 for 15 days) from the airport when you arrive. Additionally you need to have one pass photo for the SIM card application.

Accomodation in Kathmandu

Accommodations in Nepal can be found very affordable without sacrificing too much comfort. The most popular and vibrant area in Kathmandu, Thamel, has plenty of good places to stay for a few nights and experience the nightlife. I stayed in the cozy Hello KTM Hostel, a couple of minutes’ walk away from the bustling main streets.

You can find a suitable accomodation for your holiday using booking.com or Hostelworld for example.

Religions in Nepal – Good to Know

Nepal is a diverse country with a rich cultural and religious heritage. Religions are an important and valuable part of the Nepalese everyday life. The predominant religions in Nepal are Hinduism and Buddhism, and the country is known for its tolerance and coexistence of various religious traditions.

Hinduism is the major religion in Nepal, with a significant majority of the population identifying as Hindus. Many important Hindu temples and pilgrimage sites are located in Nepal, including the Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu, which is one of the holiest Hindu shrines.

Buddhism has a strong presence in Nepal, especially in the northern and eastern regions. Lumbini, the birthplace of Lord Buddha, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a major pilgrimage destination for Buddhists.

Tibetan Buddhism, a distinct form of Buddhism, has also found a home in Nepal, particularly in areas bordering Tibet. Boudhanath Stupa in Kathmandu is a significant Tibetan Buddhist site. The Boudhanath Stupa is located in one of the more peaceful and idyllic areas within Kathmandu called Bouddha.

Whatcha Gonna Do in Kathmandu?

Thinking already about traveling to Nepal? Well you should! Here are few things you can do once you arrive there.

Temple Hopping

Since Kathmandu has a rich cultural and religious heritage, one of the best activities during your visit is to hire a taxi for some temple hopping and experience the spirituality on site. Even if you are not too easily excited about strange religions or habits, just keep your mind open and let the sites unfold and tell their stories to you.

Good to know: When visiting religious sites and temples in Kathmandu and Nepal in general, it’s important to dress modestly and respectfully. In general, wearing modest clothing that covers your shoulders and knees is a good practice when visiting religious sites. You may be also required to remove your shoes before entering.

Here are some important religious sites to visit:

1. Pashupatinath Temple
   • Pashupatinath is one of the holiest Hindu temples in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located on the banks of the Bagmati River.
2. Boudhanath Stupa:
   • Boudhanath is one of the largest stupas in Nepal and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a significant pilgrimage site for Buddhists, especially those following Tibetan Buddhism.
3. Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple):
   • Swayambhunath is another UNESCO World Heritage Site and is also known as the Monkey Temple due to the presence of a large number of monkeys in the area. The stupa offers panoramic views of the Kathmandu Valley and is a sacred site for both Buddhists and Hindus. Be prepared to walk up quite a few steps for the view but the entry fee is very cheap – only 200 NPR (under 2€).
4. Kathmandu Durbar Square:
   • While not a single temple, Durbar Square is a historic square in the heart of Kathmandu that houses numerous temples, palaces, and courtyards. The entry fee is relatively high, 1800 NPR or about 16€. Be mindful of the inofficial tour guides around the temple entry.
5. Krishna Mandir:
   • Located in Patan Durbar Square, Krishna Mandir is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. The temple is known for its exquisite stone carvings and traditional pagoda architecture.
6. Changu Narayan Temple:
   • Changu Narayan is an ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is located on a hilltop near Bhaktapur and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
7. Garden of Dreams (Kaiser Mahal):
   • While not a temple in the traditional sense, the Garden of Dreams is a neo-classical garden in the heart of Kathmandu which has architectural features reminiscent of European gardens.

Explore the Nightlife

Kathmandu has a surprisingly vibrant nightlife, featuring rock bars, pubs with live music, fast-food joints, and upscale restaurants. This variety can be a welcome change after spending two weeks climbing mountains, far from the basic commodities we’ve all grown accustomed to.

I am not too much into spending my nights in clubs or pubs consuming large quantaties of alcohol but the Jimi Hendrix-themed Purple Haze Rock Bar became my favorite spot to unwind in the evening. Listening live rock music while sipping on a beer and indulging in finger food can be a relaxing way to end the day. The joint is not just a music haven; it’s also a fantastic place with good atmosphere to connect with fellow travelers from diverse countries and cultures.

Trekking With or Without a Guide

There is currently lots of controversy around the topic whether or not you need to hire an official guide for your trek to the mountain ranges. The Nepal Tourism Board announced in the March of 2023 that starting from April the first 2023, tourists need to hire a guide instead of go wandering alone to the nature. Many tourists have gotten forever lost on their adventures which is always the risk especially when reaching high altitudes and having an experienced guide will make the experience of course much safer.

Needless to say, hiring a guide for a week-long or even longer hike is going to multiply the costs involved and dismiss the chance to find complete lonely solitude within the mountains. To be fair to Nepalese folk, this rule will create new jobs and revenue to the poor country which should help with investing to the road network.

Nepalese Roads – An Unforgettable Experience

Roads in Nepal are not the best. In fact, I´ve never experienced such shaky experience as taking a bus from Kathmandu to Pokhara. The distance in between these two cities on the map is only 200km which does not seem that far at all. However, my bus ride for this journey took 11 hours with 3 breaks along the way! Not only you´ll get to see all the scenery on the way because of the slow travel but you will probably experience also the bumbiest ride of your life.

Now here´s another travel tip: Book your bus tickets between Kathamndu and Pokhara few days in advance and reserve seats from the front of the bus. I booked my ticket just the night before and sat the whole journey on the back of the bus which felt like very long crazy rollercoaster. Not kidding..

Rent a Bike

Even though the roads are as they are, there is something special about riding up and down in the mountain landscape and easily breeze through the valleys surrounded by flowery fields and authentic Nepalese villages. If you have already experience riding a motorcycle and you have an international drivers license, this is an experience I would recommend you to try.

Because the prices in Nepal are generally rather affordable for western standards, you can hire a 150cc motorbike for about 12€ (1500NPR) per day which is a great bargain for the experience. You can get a scooter for cheaper of course but for these roads I would recommend a bike with manual gears and bigger wheels.

Enjoy the Nepalese Cuisine

Dal Bhat, Thukpa, Thenthuk, Momo – just to name a few traditional dishes from the diverse world of Nepalese cuisine. Nepalese people particularly relish a variety of soups, likely because they are easy to prepare and provide a comforting warmth in the evening by the fireplace during a chilly night in the high mountains.

Nepalese cuisine is also suitable for vegetarians, as many dishes can be enjoyed with or without meat. Although meat is scarce in this mountainous country, the animals are not typically raised in captivity; instead, they roam freely, grazing on natural grass. One might assume that the milk and meat from these animals are more natural and healthier compared to our western, mass-produced, soy-fed livestock.

In Nepal, you’ll find almost as many Indian restaurants as Nepalese ones, adding to the delightful variety of cuisines. Even Western food is well-known by the Nepalese, and you can even order French fries or sandwiches in the charming guesthouses along the hiking trails far away from civilization.

Pokhara – Why Travel There?

Why on earth would anybody willingly spend two full precious holidays sitting through an uncomfortable bus ride there and back when you have great hiking trails near the vibrant capital city of Nepal? Well, actually, you don’t have to.

There are plenty of flights between Kathmandu and Pokhara if your travel budget allows this luxurious way of travel. I ended up spending a bit more and chose a much more comfortable flight back to Kathmandu.

Pokhara offers a very different experience than the capital city. The people seem to be even friendlier, the landscape by Phewa Lake is stunningly beautiful, and the overall atmosphere in the city is heartily welcoming. Pokhara is honestly possibly my favorite place in the world that I’ve ever been to so far!

Annapurna Hiking Trail

Needless to say, the number one best thing to do in Pokhara is trekking. Since I planned to stay in Pokhara for only a week, I chose to do the “easiest” Poon Hill Trek and spend 3 days in the mountains.

You could do the trek also in 2 days by starting from Nayapul and descend the same way back down but I wanted to have one more day time in the nature and took a return bus to Pokhara from Ghandruk instead.

Most Popular Trekking Trails

Poon Hill Trek:

• As I mentioned before, this trail is one of the easier options. The path is clearly marked, and there are plenty of guesthouses and resting places along the route. The path itself is mostly a gravel path with stone steps, which can get slippery during rain. The starting point for the classic Poon Hill Trek is Nayapul and ends in Ghandruk. Along the way, you can enjoy stunning mountain views, waterfalls, lush forests, and the most amazing sunrises. The highest point for this trek is on top of the Poon Hill at an altitude of 3200 meters above the sea level.
• Duration 2-5 days

Mardi Himal Trek:

• The Mardi Himal Trek is a bit more challenging and takes you to the Mardi Himal Base Camp. This trek is considered a moderate trek, making it suitable for trekkers with a moderate level of fitness and some trekking experience. The highest elevation is at the Base Camp which is situated at an altitude of around 4,500 meters above sea level. At this elevation an altitude sickness can become a real problem for inexperienced trekkers.
• Duration 6-9 days

ABC Trek:

• Annapurna Base Camp trek is a popular trekking route in the Annapurna region of Nepal. It is also known as the Annapurna Sanctuary Trek. The trek takes you to the base camp of Mount Annapurna, one of the highest peaks in the world. The difficulty of the ABC trek is also considered moderate. Altitude can also be a factor, as Annapurna Base Camp is situated at an elevation of around 4,130 meters.
• Duration 7-12 days

Things to Know Before Starting the Trek

Trekkers are required to obtain the necessary permits for entering the national park in advance. For the Annapurna region, you’ll need the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP). You can get it from travel offices for a fee, or you can go to the permit office and apply for it yourself. You need 2 passport photos for the application, and the cost for foreigners is 3000 NPR (approximately 25€). If you forgot to take photos with you, there are a few shops nearby that provide this service.

For the Poon Hill Trek, I’d recommend packing light but taking some warm clothes, as the nights get cold in the mountains. Additionally, take plenty of drinking water, some snacks, cash, and a map. Google Maps does not recognize the trekking trails. In my personal opinion, you do not need a travel guide for this trek and it will not be required either.

The guesthouses along the way will not cost you much, but they provide food and drinks, which constitute their main sources of income. Some places also charge for Wi-Fi. The common area is a warm place to relax and enjoy a beer if you feel like it, but the rooms are generally not heated, and the temperatures outside may well be freezing.

Other Things to Do in Pokhara

A great way to explore the city is to rent a scooter or a motorbike. I got a scooter for about 5€ per day and went to see the World Peace Pagoda and the huge statue of Shiva at Pumdikot, both of which are on top of a hill. From there, you’ll also have a great view of the city.

The lakeside of Pokhara is a lovely place to have an evening walk and watch people returning to the dock on their rented paddle boats or take pictures of the iconic blue rowing boats. There are also many inviting restaurants and bars along the lakeside, as well as a Nepalese version of a ‘Disneyland,‘ which is probably not the property of The Walt Disney Company. At least I did not spot Mickey or any Stormtroopers.

Go Shopping Cheap Trekking Gear and Clothing

When you are planning your next adventure to do the Annapurna Base Camp trek, for example, you might first start to wonder what kind of clothing and equipment you might need to buy beforehand. Now, after seeing both of the cities full of shops selling basically all kinds of trekking equipment you can think of for a much cheaper price than in Europe, I would buy my equipment in Nepal. For example, you can get a good-quality trekking jacket for probably around 20€ or less, depending on how well you can negotiate with the shopkeeper.

The Most Delicious Dishes in Pokhara

I had the privilege to enjoy Nepalese cuisine made with love in many restaurants, but these two are the ones that I would recommend everybody to try.

Vegan Way

Vegan Way is located in Pokhara by the lakeside, a little bit outside of the city. To describe the place the Finnish way – meaning brutally straightforward – Vegan Way seems to be a home for Pokhara’s “Hippie community,” where people gather to enjoy amazing vegan meals, play instruments and sing songs.

After trying their delicious and healthy vegan breakfasts or burgers, you’ll have the strength to climb any mountain, or you can get re-nourished after the exhausting adventure.

Tara´s Restaurant

Tara´s Restaurant is an authentic Nepalese home kitchen operated by herself or with the assistance of her husband. The restaurant is rather small and is located within an inner yard of an apartment complex, but it has very calm and relaxing vibes.

The food at Tara’s is very affordable, and she has many of the favorite Nepalese cuisines on her menu. Her signature dishes are Tara’s Pad Thai and Momos. The food is made with love, and you can taste it in every dish. However, this restaurant is not fast food, as she might be cooking and serving the food for all customers by herself.

The Next Safe Haven for Digital Nomads?

Pokhara seems to have it all – friendly local people, amazing landscapes and nature, delicious and affordable cuisine, inexpensive accommodation, and a feeling of an inviting community – everything that a digital nomad could possibly need. Pokhara might be the next hotspot for the work and travel community, but perhaps not before they open the new international airport for international flights. The only downside of Pokhara is its remoteness, but at the same time, it is one of its great advantages as a travel destination.

Summary

The next time you get the feeling that you just want to get far, far away from all the everyday stress and try to find your own path again to start the new spiritual journey – Nepal and Pokhara, especially, is a great place to start (like Rishikesh).

Whether you’re seeking a tranquil retreat to chill and relax or aiming to discover your own strength on a weeklong mountain trek, Nepal offers it all. Despite being officially one of the poorest countries on paper, the truth is, here even the poorest person can find riches beyond imagination.

If you liked this blog post, please feel free to share it in any social media platform or show it to your friend who may be looking for a travel destination.

I leave you with this quote:

“Satisfaction lies in the effort, not in the attainment.”

-Mahatma Gandhi

Stay curious and happy travels!

-Jesse